Traditional rappel setup
How to Guide for Rock Climbing Rappelling
Introduction:
Rappelling, or abseiling, is an essential skill for rock climbers to descend from a climb safely and efficiently. This guide will outline the gear needed, how to set up a personal anchor system, using an ATC (air traffic controller), and adding a third hand for extra security.
Gear Needed:
To ensure a safe and efficient rappel, gather the following gear:
a. Climbing harness
b. Rappel device (ATC or similar)
c. Third hand (e.g. autoblock, prusik, or Klemheist hitch)
d. Personal anchor system (PAS)
e. Locking carabiners (at least 3)
f. Climbing helmet
g. Sturdy gloves (optional)
h. Rappel rope (dynamic climbing rope or static rappel rope)
Setting up a Personal Anchor System (PAS):
A PAS is a crucial part of rappelling safety. It connects you to the anchor and provides a secure attachment point while preparing to rappel.
a. Attach one end of the PAS to the belay loop on your harness using a locking carabiner.
b. Ensure that the carabiner gate is locked and oriented correctly.
c. Attach the other end of the PAS to the anchor point using another locking carabiner.
d. Double-check the carabiner gate is locked and oriented correctly.
Setting up the ATC:
The ATC is a versatile rappel and belay device. Follow these steps to set it up for rappelling:
a. Make sure the rappel ropes are threaded through the anchor and equalized.
b. Tie a stopper knot at the end of each rope to prevent accidentally rappelling off the ends.
c. Pull up a bight of both ropes and clip them through the cable of the ATC.
d. Attach the ATC to your belay loop with a locking carabiner, ensuring that the carabiner is locked and oriented correctly.
Adding a Third Hand:
A third hand provides extra security and control during rappelling by creating friction on the rope.
a. Choose a suitable friction hitch, such as an autoblock, prusik, or Klemheist hitch.
b. Using a loop of cord or a sling, create the friction hitch around both strands of the rappel rope below the ATC.
c. Attach the friction hitch to your leg loop using a locking carabiner. Ensure the carabiner is locked and oriented correctly.
d. Adjust the length of the third hand so it provides enough friction but still allows for smooth rappelling.
Rappelling:
With your gear set up, you're ready to rappel. Follow these steps:
a. Verify that your PAS, ATC, and third hand are all correctly set up and secure.
b. Weight the rappel rope to ensure it's safely attached to the anchor.
c. Gradually transfer your weight from the PAS to the rappel rope, and then disconnect the PAS from the anchor.
d. Maintain a firm grip on the brake strand of the rope below the ATC with your dominant hand, while your non-dominant hand holds the rope above the third hand.
e. Lean back and walk down the rock face in a controlled manner, using your legs for support.
f. As you descend, slide the third hand down the rope to maintain friction.